Oiling and Cleaning a Vibrating Shuttle Sewing Machine

Recently I have acquired a number of new machines, including two vibrating shuttle machines.  I decided to create a post detailing how to oil and clean one, particularly in the case of the machine being seized through being left to sit.

From the front

The machine used below is called The Valley B.G. and is made in Germany.  I suspect it could be a re-badged Vesta.  It should be noted not all machines are identical although most parts operate in a fairly similar fashion.  A White vibrating shuttle, for example, has a different mechanism for operating the shuttle movement.  If the machine is seized, gently clean the oil holes to try an reduce the amount of dust likely to fall inside and apply oil to all oil holes on the arm of the machine, see below:

Oil holes on arm of machine

There is another oil hole just out of frame which lubricates the main shaft as it leaves the head and is attached to the hand-wheel.  This machine had no oil holes on the bed but some machines do, so check yours and oil if need be.

Now turn the machine on its back so that you can see underneath.  Referring to the diagram below oil the machine, applying grease to the roller and its track (see close up below).  Use all oil holes but if there doesn't seem to be one just drip or spray oil into the join between two moving parts as much as possible.  The top left hand arrow in the picture which says 'grease' should actually say 'oil' instead.  Using steel wool and oil, you can clean all the rods, being sure to remove any rust and wiping the parts clean with a rag afterwards.

Underneath of machine showing oiling and greasing

Oil hole in shuttle mechanism

Showing where to grease roller for shuttle mechanism

Remove the back plate on the machine and thoroughly grease the cam and fork and the rocking mechanism, as indicated in the image below.

Showing greasing under back plate.

Now remove the face-plate, needle, foot and throat plate.  Take note of which way the needle was inserted and if in doubt about whether it is a standard size, hang on to it for later comparisons.  If the machine is still seized and with the needle down, removing the needle may be impossible, in which case the throatplate will not come off either.  However, if you have oiled the machine as above, some gentle force may help your cause.  Sometimes you will have to repeat oil them and leave them to sit for a few days before they will yield.

Shows screws to remove throatplate, needle and foot

Now turn your attention to under the faceplate (the metal cover that sits on your left if you are facing the machine).  Underneath you will have the needlebar, presser bar, take-up lever and other delights which won't concern us yet.  Clean the needle and presser bars well with oil and steel wool and then evenly oil so that they glide smoothly up and down.

Under the faceplate

Both the take-up lever (seen above) and the needle bar are moved up and down by a cam stud roller following a cam.  These rollers and cams need to be well greased so that the move freely without dragging.  The rollers are supposed to rotate as they travel around the cam so they do not drag an wear it.  This can be hard to test though, watching closely with a torch is your best bet.  Below are close-up images showing these rollers and their cams in relation to the surrounding parts and showing where to grease.

Take-up lever operation from under face-plate

Take-up lever roller and track from front

Roller for moving needlebar up and down from under face-plate

Now turn the machine upside down again and clean the arch of the shuttle's track well with steel wool and oil.  Once clean, smear a film of grease across it using your finger.  This is to lubricate the shuttle as it runs across.

Shuttle track, clean and grease.

Shows shuttle sitting on its track

 Now dismantle the tension assembly carefully.  Remove the thumbnut all the way and then carefully take the pieces off, laying them in order so that you know how to replace them.  Leave the take-up spring on the shaft and clean the threads with a soft wire brush and some oil.  Clean the tension discs well so that they don't snag thread and ensure the tension spring is put back on with the final loop facing downwards.

After removal of tension assembly

Parts of tension assembly in order of reassembly

Showing correct placement of tension spring

Now turn your attention to the shuttle.  You should remove the tension spring and clean it well with steel wool and oil and clean the shuttle thoroughly in the same way.  Tension on the thread is adjusted using the screw you remove to take out the spring.

Removing tension spring

Tension spring and screw, before cleaning

Showing lint under spring which will interfere with tension regulation

Once reassembled, grease flat edges of shuttle lightly.

Where to grease shuttle

Now you can thread the shuttle with a long bobbin.  Using two hands, hold the shuttle in one ( the left if you are right-handed) and the bobbin in the other, so that the bobbin thread is across the bobbin and the end is on the right, as below but I only had one hand spare!

Showing bobbin thread direction and cut in shuttle.

Now drop the bobbin into the shuttle, dragging the thread down the cut in the side until it reaches the end and moves up the other side.

Thread at end of cut

Now pull the thread to the left until it goes under the finger on the tension spring.

Showing thread under finger

Bring thread back to the right over the finger and your shuttle is ready to go into the machine.

Finished threading

To insert the shuttle into the machine, place it point first into the shuttle carrier and drop the other end gently guiding it to sit straight and evenly into it, as below:

Inserting the shuttle

Hopefully the above can serve as a starting point to anyone wishing to work on a vibrating shuttle sewing machine.  Any questions feel free to contact me and I will do my best to help.

Singer 201K

Quite some time ago I bought a lovely Singer 201 from work.  However with study I never got around to cleaning it.  On Sunday I was bored and decided to get it out and play with it.  Every time I get this machine out I sit and look at it for a bit because it is just so beautiful and sleek.  This time was no different and afterwards I set in to cleaning it thoroughly.  There is no rust on it, excepting the hand wheel but a lot of caked on oil and dust.  This I set about removing, before oiling it and trying to set it up.  I started under the bed of the machine, because I always do.

Packed in its crate with its motor, as it has been for a year.

Under the bobbin area

Gear cover, to remove, remove circled screws.

Bobbin gear cover, to remove, remove circled screws.

Lovely metal gears.

Once I had finished under the bed I did the rest of the machine, starting with under the faceplate and moving through to the bobbin area and finally all the 'cosmetic' work, which isn't necessary for the efficient functioning of the machine but I like to know it's all shiny.

Under the faceplate, before cleaning

Bobbin and needle area, before cleaning

Hook, after the removal of the bobbin case.

Clean bobbin area

After some cosmetic work 

At the moment I have it mounted in the Singer 206's table, running off the industrial motor as its own motor needs a lot of work.  I am very pleased with it, it is very quiet and stitches very neatly.

Elna Supermatic

Due to the amount of studies I have had recently, I had about a week were I did not work.  When I went back in on a Saturday morning there were three machines awaiting me.  One was a modern Brother overlocker, with no pedal (I'm yet to decide what I'm going to do with it), one was a Singer 5528, the second of them I've had in as many months and I keep meaning to devote a post to them and the third was in a very square metal case.  There was only one machine I knew for sure came in a metal case (Elna model 1) and this was the wrong colour, so I was extremely excited when I took the machine out.  It was a gorgeous Elna Supermatic, complete with ~11 cams plus the buttonhole attachment, a few feet and the cover plates for the feed dogs.  Half of the case forms the flat bed for the machine and the machine is a knee control (I love knee controls!).  This machine is made in Switzerland and has all metal gears and parts, that I can see, the body is aluminium and consequently the machine is not all that heavy.

It wasn't until a week later I found time to take it home and look at it, there is no way I am selling this machine, I am BUYING it!

Firstly I removed the cover from the free arm and the throat-plate just sprung off, the bobbin loads from the back, I then removed the feed dogs so that I could get the bobbin holder and the hook apart, for ease of cleaning.  The surfaces here have been de-rusted at some period in time as the chrome is less than shiny in parts.

To get the bobbin holder free from the hook there are two little screws (with little springs coiled around them) that need to be removed, they are directly opposite each other and the holes can be seen in the photograph below.  Just be aware they are very springy and are very easy to lose if they spring away somewhere.

 
The next thing I did was remove the base of the machine (remove screws circled in red in image below) so I could see up the pillar, it is incredible.  The motor and all the necessary electrical parts to control the speed of the machine through the knee control are mounted in there.  The motor is geared into the machine much higher up the arm and cannot be seen in the following photographs.

Finally I checked and oiled all the moving parts under the faceplate and cam door.  The faceplate cannot be opened unless the foot is down.  The machine is threaded by passing the thread down the back of the faceplate, through the tension, from back to front, and then through the take-up lever and then as usual.

Whilst I was oiling this machine I noticed it had a hard spot, I thought maybe something wasn't oiled properly but despite oiling all the usual spots the noise persisted.  When I actually plugged the machine in and ran it the noise increased with the speed (as was to be expected) and the machine clunked dreadfully.  It wasn't until a couple of days later I found enough time to go and look at it again.

It came to my attention that the noise was not always in the same place in the machines rotation, this implied the motor was at fault.  Eventually I disengaged the machine from the motor as for bobbin winding and the clunking continued, definitely the motor.  With the base removed it became obvious that every time the machine clunked the entire motor was moving, which it definitely was not supposed to do.  The problem was, how to see up the arm to see the gears?  I did not have the appropriate circlip pliers to remove the handwheel and try and see in that way but eventually remember we had a camera for seeing in confined spaces.  This worked and I can now say that to all intents and purposes it looks as if the gears up there are chipped and resulting in the machine not running smoothly.  When I am finally finished for the year (another 4 weeks) I intend to go through the painstaking process of removing the motor and actually being able to personally see the extent of the damage.  It is annoying to have such a beautiful machine, complete with accessories and be completely unable to use it!!  At least I only have to pay $10 for it as it is completely unsaleable.....!

Janome Overlocker My Lock 234

I finally got to clean the Janome overlocker yesterday.  It was rather fluffy as overlockers tend to be.  I ended up taking the base off to get it clean and reach all the oiling points.

To get the base off, remove screws circled in red.

As can be seen from the above photograph there was a bit of cleaning to be done!  Once I had dealt with the bottom and oiled everything I took the top and side off.  I didn't do screw diagrams for these but it is simple, there is one screw holding the lhs on and two holding the top on, the top screws are under the handle.  There is an oiling point on the top of most overlockers and it feeds into a clever wick system.  I had an overlocker seize on me once and that was the problem, the wick was dry.  When you take the top off you can see the felt and wick system.

The tension is interesting on this at the moment and in the 10 minutes I had left to play with it I didn't get very far, with any luck I will manage better next time.  It does have a sharp blade though which is good.  From the front below:

I have some nice photos of water droplets from the most recent rain which will hopefully comprise the next post.